Crabitan-Bellevue - Saint-Croix-du-Mont

Just below the city of Bordeaux  a stone's throw from Sauternes, on the opposite bank of the river Garonne, facing the famous vineyards of Château d'Yquem one finds the vineyards of Saint-Croix-du-Mont. They share a similar terroir and the same varietals as those in Sauternes - Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle.  Some of the world's most famous dessert wines hail from Sauternes, while some of the area's best-kept secret dessert wines hail from Saint-Croix-du-Mont.

Château Crabitan-Bellevue

These dessert wines, or vins liquoreux, are probably the most undervalued wines available in the UK. They are very labour-intensive to make. Initially in the vineyard, it is essential to wait until the grapes are very ripe before picking.  In good years patience is rewarded, but in bad years if it rains during this period, the crop is either ruined by rot, or diluted by rain.  In very good years, the morning mist floats in from the Gironde and settles low over the vines, and then a miracle occurs. Botrytis cinerea, the noble rot, infects the grapes, causing them to become shrivelled and mis-shapen, but amazingly this concentrates the sugars, preserves the acidity and adds its own distinctive flavour.  At this point, the pickers will make several passages over a period of days, or weeks, selecting only the affected bunches. The labour costs are correspondingly high. 

The Solanes, who own Crabitan-Bellevue, have an extended family of friends and relatives, who all descend on the vineyard at harvest time, and help with the picking. The work then begins in the cellar, transforming these shrivelled grapes into the nectar that you find in the bottle......

Courtyard

It is almost 20 years since we first came upon Solane family and I remember being blown away after they opened bottle after bottle of amazing old vintages!  We first shipped the 1985 and 1986, and then went on to ship from them regularly every three years or so. 

This year we visited again in the Spring, and their wines were as impressive as ever - rich and unctuous but never cloying!  We have put together a mixed case of our three favourite wines. These are all delicious now, but they will keep for over 20 years. I still have some of the 1985 and it is fabulous!

A Mixed Case consists of four bottles of each -

Chateau Crabitan-Bellevue 2005                                                                                                                £7.95  AC Saint-Croix-du Mont                                                                                                                                     Gold in colour, it has a wonderful nose of honey and Botrytis. On the palate there is lovely concentration, honey, marmalade with citrus undertones, barley sugar and fresh acidity. It finishes long.

Chateau Crabitan-Bellevue 2004                                                                                                                £7.85  AC Saint-Croix-du Mont                                                                                                                                     Gold in colour, this is more citrusy on the nose with hints of honey and less Botrytis. On the palate it is a little lighter, more elegant with flavours of honey, almond and marzipan, once again with good balancing acidity..

Chateau Crabitan-Bellevue Cuvée Spéciale 2003                                                                                   £9.95  AC Saint-Croix-du Mont                                                                                                                                     Gold This cuvée is only made in great years, and is aged in oak barrels.  This is the most gold in colour, with a honeyed Botrytis nose and a hint of oak.  On the palate it is the richest and most concentrated of the three with flavours of honey, butterscotch and spice. There is a little less acidity but it finishes cleanly and has good length.  Nectar!

Mixed Case Price : £104.00

These wines are fantastic value.  Equivalent wines in the shops will cost about the same for a half bottle!  Buy a case now and enjoy it over the coming years..............