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Marvellous Minervois! Domaine Cros
Badens is a sleepy Minervois village situated in the Minervois, in a vast amphitheatre lined by the Canal du Midi to the South and the Montagne Noire to the North, stretching from Carcassonne to Narbonne. It is here that little else except the vine and olive trees struggle to grow in the intense heat of the Southern sun, and the loudest sound is the gentle buzz of the bees in the summer.
Pierre Cros, a passionate ex-rugby player is, is a self-taught viticulteur/vigneron, who regularly achieves marks in the high 90s in Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, as well as receiving frequent accolades in the French press. It is here that he cultivates a 20 hectare vineyard with the classic Southern grape varieties of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah, and his Carignan vines date back to 1905!
However, he is something of a maverick and a thorn in the side of the AOC authorities, as most unusually, he grows the non-permitted grape varieties of Nebiolo (Italy), Touriga Nacional (Portugal) and Pinot Noir (Burgundy). The label (opposite) of his Touriga Nacional, which by law can only be labelled as a Vin de Table without mentioning the all important grape variety encapsulates his philosophy!
We have been following his wines over the past seven years, and this Spring when we visited him for the third time we were bowled over by these three wines. Pierre Cros Syrah/Mourvèdre 2009 £5.95 Vin de Table Not content with making an AC Minervois Rosé that complies with the appellation laws, Pierre makes this stunning Rosé, from the Mourvèdre (best known in the fabled Bandol Rosés of Provence) and Syrah. As a result it can only be classified as a Vin de Table. It has a delicate, bright, pale rosé colour with a mouthwatering blackberry/apple nose, which leads into a mouthful of gorgeous peach and raspberry flavours. There is crisp finish of lovely mineral acidity, reflecting the argilo-calcaire terroir, and a hint of liquorice in the long aftertaste. This is great as an aperitif but also perfect with salads and charcuterie. Domaine Cros Minervois Tradition 2008 £6.50 AC Minervois A wine that actually complies with the appellation regulations, this is made from old Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. It is very deep in colour, with a nose bursting of blueberries. On the palate it is soft, gorgeously fruity with flavours of plums and blueberries, some soft tannin and great length. Great to drink now, it will keep easily for two to three years. Great value! La Liberté n’est pas de faire…. £7.25 Vin de Table This is another of Pierre’s beautifully idiosyncratic wines, which is made from the Touriga Nacional, better known as a principal grape in port in Portugal. As the grape variety is not allowed in Minervois it is also classified as a Vin de Table, but probably one of the most interesting you’ll ever enjoy! Deep in colour with a maturing rim, it has a plummy, gamey nose, while on the palate there is succulent cassis fruit with hints of rose petals and liquorice. There is some gentle tannin at the finish, a hint of liquorice and terroir and great length. A fascinating wine, the label alone expresses some of Pierre’s superb eccentricity! Mixed Case Price : £78.80 Please email, fax, phone or write to place your orders. July 2010
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